Collars and Sleeves

Lesson card: collars and sleeves

• Four collar families: flat collars lie on the shoulders (Peter Pan, sailor); stand collars rise around the neck (mandarin); roll collars fold over a stand (the shirt collar); and some are cut in one with the bodice (shawl and funnel collars).
• The curve rule: the closer the curve of the collar's neck edge is to the curve of the neckline, the flatter the collar lies; the straighter the edge, the higher the collar stands.
• The under collar: cut slightly smaller than the upper collar so the seam rolls to the underside and stays hidden.
• The sleeve head: one notch for the front and two for the back, and its measurement is slightly longer than the armhole so the ease can be spread to shape around the shoulder.
• Sleeve head height: a high sleeve head gives a slim, elegant sleeve with less movement; a low one gives more freedom for sportswear and workwear.
• Sleeve variations: puff and bishop sleeves are made from the basic sleeve by slashing and spreading: at the head for a puff sleeve, at the hem for a bishop sleeve.