You finished the Baroque journey
Era card: the Baroque (c. 1600–1715)
- From rigid to flowing: the farthingale and the starched ruff disappeared, replaced by a flat lace collar, shimmering satins that draped softly, and a waistline that first rose and then dropped to a long, pointed bodice.
- Versailles, capital of fashion: Louis XIV made elegance part of government. By the 1670s red heels at court were reserved for a chosen circle of nobles, the long periwig signalled majesty, and attending court demanded a constant supply of new clothes.
- The French fashion industry: in the 1660s the minister Colbert set up royal lace manufactories, brought in lacemakers from Venice and Flanders and granted them an exclusive privilege in 1665, so that French money would stop flowing to Venetian lace. Fashion had become economic policy.
- The three-piece suit: in October 1666 King Charles II of England announced a new court dress of a long coat, a vest (waistcoat) beneath it and breeches, the direct ancestor of the modern men's suit.
- Dressmakers and the mantua: on 30 March 1675 Louis XIV granted statutes for an independent guild of Paris women dressmakers (couturières) to make clothes for women and young children; until then male tailors had held a monopoly on the trade. With them spread the comfortable mantua, a gown pleated to fit the body.
- Spreading the fashion: fashion dolls sent from Paris to other capitals, and the Mercure galant, founded in 1672, which went on to publish fashion news and fashion plates.
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Bring historical silhouettes into your own designs
Pointed bodices, pleated mantuas and tailored coats all start with a well-cut pattern. Learn pattern making and couture techniques at our atelier in Manchester and use history as inspiration for your own collection.
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Couture and tailoring
Next in the series: The Rococo.
Earlier episodes: The Renaissance · Ancient Egypt · Greece and Rome · The Middle Ages (in Arabic)