Seams and Seam Finishes

Lesson card: seams and finishes

• Plain seam: the basis of everything. Press it open or to one side, then finish the raw edges so they don't fray.
• French seam: the raw edges are enclosed inside the seam. Ideal for sheer and fine fabrics such as chiffon, organza and lingerie.
• Flat-felled seam: very strong and flat, with two rows of stitching on the outside. You see it on jeans, shirts and workwear.
• Hong Kong finish: each seam allowance is bound with a bias strip. It gives a luxurious inside to unlined jackets and coats.
• Overlocking (serging): trims and wraps the edge in one pass. It is the standard industry finish and the best choice for stretchy knits.
• Pressing rule: press every seam before you cross it with another. Press it flat as sewn first, then open.