The basic block
The straight skirt block is drafted from waist, hip, hip depth (waist to hip line) and length. The difference between waist and hip is shared between darts and side seams.
A helpful tip: every skirt shape starts from the basic straight skirt block, then changes by slashing, spreading and closing.
The A-line
Usually made by closing all or part of the waist dart so the hem opens out. Christian Dior presented his "A-line" in spring 1955.
The circle skirt
For a full circle: waist radius = waist ÷ (2 × π). For a half circle: waist ÷ π. Let it hang for a day before levelling the hem, because the bias sections drop.
The gored skirt
Made of vertical panels (4, 6, 8 or more), each narrow at the waist and widening to the hem, so it fits closely and flares below.
The pencil skirt
Narrow and straight or slightly tapered to the knee, so it needs a back vent or kick pleat for walking.
The godet
A triangular or sector-shaped piece set into a seam or slash to add flare at the hem, as in a mermaid skirt.
Draft your own skirt pattern
From the basic block to circle and gored skirts, in Anna Stella's Manchester classes.
Sources
- Winifred Aldrich, Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear, Wiley-Blackwell.
- Helen Joseph-Armstrong, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Pearson.
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art: Christian Dior, A-line collection, spring 1955.
- Anna Stella Academy's pattern-making experience since 1992.