Elastane recycling is one of the hardest problems facing the fashion industry today, even though few people talk about it. The stretchy fibre that gives skinny jeans, sports T-shirts and leggings their flexibility is found in around 80% of our clothes — and it is the very thing that stops many of them from becoming new yarn at the end of their life.

What is elastane, and why do we love it?

Elastane (sold under trade names such as Lycra or Spandex) is a synthetic, fossil-based fibre that can stretch up to 500% and snap back into shape. That is why mills add it in small amounts: usually 1–5% in cotton and wool fabrics, and up to 20% in polyester and nylon fabrics. A small percentage, but it makes the difference between trousers that restrict movement and trousers that move with the body.

What this means for you as a designer: every time you choose a “stretch” fabric, you are choosing comfort for your client — but you are also deciding what happens to that garment years from now.

Why does elastane block recycling?

In recycling plants, elastane is treated as a “contaminant”. Even tiny amounts disrupt the process of turning old cotton or polyester into new yarn, because it is blended with the other fibres and cannot be separated easily. As a result, many stretch garments end up downcycled into low-value products such as padding and insulation, or sent to landfill. We have written before about the challenge of blended fabric recycling — elastane is the toughest link in that chain.

What this means for you: a garment made from 100% cotton has a far better chance of being recycled than one made from “cotton with 3% elastane”, even if the two look exactly the same.

Stretching Circularity: testing the alternatives in the real world

In February 2026, Amsterdam-based Fashion for Good launched a project called Stretching Circularity to tackle this problem head-on. Its managing director, Katrin Ley, says lower-impact elastane solutions already exist — what they lack is real pilot-scale testing so that brands can trust them.

The project runs on two tracks. The first tests next-generation elastane made from alternative inputs, including bio-based sources, through real demonstrator garments — a technical T-shirt with 10% elastane and an everyday T-shirt with 2%. The second tests “regenerated” elastane produced by emerging recycling technologies. Partners include brands such as Reformation, On and Levi Strauss & Co, alongside suppliers Paradise Textiles and Positive Materials, with Ralph Lauren acting as an advisor.

What this means for you: the question is no longer “should we give up stretch?” but “how do we get stretch in a recyclable way?” — and that will open up new material choices for designers in the coming years.

The LYCRA Company: turning an obstacle into a resource

In September 2026, at the Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress in Austria, The LYCRA Company — the best-known name in elastane — presented its textile-to-textile recycling platform. Its idea is that elastane need not be a barrier at all: it can become a valuable resource if recyclers, spinners and brands work together, and the platform is designed to work with mechanical, chemical and enzymatic recycling methods. The company is also developing RENEWABLE LYCRA fibre, which contains 70% renewable material derived partly from corn.

What this means for you: when you ask a supplier for a stretch fabric, you can now also ask whether it is available with bio-based or recycled elastane.

What can future designers take from this?

• Use stretch only where it is needed: does this piece really need elastane? Relaxed cuts, pleats and bias cutting all create movement without it.
• Read the composition label with fresh eyes: 2% elastane is not a minor detail — it decides whether the garment can be recycled or not.
• Try mechanical stretch: some fabrics stretch because of how they are knitted or woven (such as jersey and rib), not because of a stretch fibre — a smart choice for everyday pieces.
• Follow the new materials: bio-based and recycled elastane are on their way into supplier catalogues, and the designer who knows them early will stay ahead.

Conclusion

Elastane recycling is no longer a technical issue far removed from the design studio. Pilot projects and industry solutions are moving fast in 2026, but a big part of the answer starts with the designer’s own decision when choosing fabric. At Anna Stella Academy, we see understanding materials — from fibre to finished garment — as a foundation of every fashion designer’s journey.