Weave Structures

Lesson card: weave structures

• Warp and weft: the warp is the lengthwise threads stretched on the loom, parallel to the selvedge; the weft is the crosswise threads that pass back and forth between them.
• Plain weave: the simplest and firmest structure: each weft thread goes over one warp thread and under the next. Poplin, chiffon, organza, taffeta and muslin are plain weaves.
• Twill: the interlacing points step along by one in every row, so diagonal lines appear. A strong weave that drapes well; denim and gabardine are twills.
• Satin: threads float over several threads before interlacing, and the interlacing points are spread out and scattered, so the face reflects light and looks shiny and smooth, but it snags and frays more easily.
• Basket weave: a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads work together as one, creating a pattern of little squares.
• Knit: not a woven fabric at all, but interlocking loops of one or more yarns, which is why it stretches and recovers.
• True bias: the 45-degree direction between warp and weft, where a woven fabric has the most give and drape.