Agentic commerce is the new name for a way of shopping that is taking shape right now. Instead of typing keywords into Google and clicking through dozens of pages, a shopper asks an AI assistant like ChatGPT, “I’m looking for an affordable linen summer dress,” and the assistant searches, compares and suggests specific pieces with links. The word “agentic” comes from “agent”: software that doesn’t just answer, but acts on your behalf, step by step.
The number that caught the fashion industry’s attention
The State of Fashion 2026 report by McKinsey and The Business of Fashion included a figure that sparked wide discussion: according to SimilarWeb, ChatGPT drove about 16% of Zara’s inbound traffic, and 8% each for H&M and Aritzia, between June and August 2025.
One important detail: this figure refers to referral traffic — visits arriving through links on other websites and platforms — not to the store’s total visitors. Most people still reach Zara directly or via Google. Even so, it was no passing spike. In March 2026, BoF reported that AI accounted for 15% of Zara’s referral traffic and 8% of H&M’s between February 2025 and January 2026, according to SimilarWeb.
What this means for you as a designer: the AI conversation has become a new shop window. The question is no longer only “Does my shop appear on Google?” but also “Does ChatGPT mention me when someone asks about the kind of pieces I design?”
Why Zara and H&M in particular?
AI doesn’t see your paid ads; it “reads” what has been written about you online. Big brands have an enormous footprint of reviews, articles and comparisons — just think how often “Zara or H&M?” has been asked. That is why BoF assesses fashion brands in large language models by how ChatGPT, Gemini and Claude recall, select and prioritise brands when answering shopping prompts.
The field now has its own name: GEO, generative engine optimisation — SEO’s younger sibling. Brands are turning to startups such as Profound to make sure their products surface on platforms like ChatGPT. Still, the report stresses that SEO remains a core driver of traffic, so balancing GEO and SEO is key.
What this means for you: you won’t outspend Zara, but you can become the clearest answer in your specific niche. AI rewards clarity: who you are, what you design, for whom, and in which materials.
From search to purchase — and the experiment that stumbled
The same report tracks a dramatic shift in shopper behaviour: shopping-related searches on generative AI platforms grew by 4,700% between July 2024 and July 2025.
OpenAI tried to take the next step. It launched Instant Checkout inside ChatGPT, built with Stripe, so the assistant could help people buy products, not just find them. The experiment didn’t last. In March 2026, OpenAI confirmed it was ending Instant Checkout in favour of working with retailers to build dedicated apps inside ChatGPT. Even Etsy, an early participant, said ChatGPT had become a valuable discovery channel, but purchase volume through Instant Checkout was relatively low because the technology is still nascent.
What this means for you: AI currently discovers and recommends, while the purchase itself still usually happens on the brand’s own website. Your site and product pages matter more than ever — they are where a visitor lands after the assistant has “vouched” for you.
How to prepare as a designer for agentic commerce
- Write complete descriptions for every piece: fabric and composition, cut, available sizes, care instructions, and who it suits. These details are what an AI assistant “reads” to decide whether your product answers a shopper’s question.
- Use people’s language, not catalogue language: add FAQs phrased the way people actually ask, such as “Does this dress suit a pear-shaped body?”
- Introduce yourself clearly: an About page stating your specialism, experience and location helps AI models connect your name with your field.
- Make sure people write about you: genuine reviews, articles and mentions on trusted platforms form the “memory” AI relies on.
- Don’t abandon SEO: Google is still the largest source of traffic, and much of what improves your visibility there also improves it in AI.
The takeaway
The Zara and H&M story isn’t only about huge budgets; it’s about brands that are discussed often and clearly, so AI remembers and recommends them. The good news for independent designers is that the rules of this new game — clarity, detail and genuine reputation — are within everyone’s reach. At Anna Stella Academy, we explore these shifts in our AI in Fashion unit, so you’re ready for a market that is changing faster than ever.
Sources: BoF–McKinsey, The State of Fashion 2026; BoF (March 2026); OpenAI; CNBC (March 2026).
